Summer 2008
Sun, sand and sea
Closest to the city is the beach at Portobello, a short ride from the centre on the number 15 or 26 bus. It’s been a popular seaside resort for many years reaching a peak in the late 19th century and early 20th century. People from all over Scotland flocked here, particularly Glaswegians, drawn to the beach, Pleasure Pier and Marine Gardens.
A huge outdoor swimming pool with wave machine was added as an attraction in 1936. It was 330 ft long by 150 feet wide, had eight diving boards and could accommodate 6000 spectators. One of the pool’s lifeguards was Fountainbridge’s most famous son, Sean Connery.
Portobello’s promenade, sandy beach and water still get busy when the weather is fine. And if you fancy a dip in warmer water, the Portobello Swim Centre is right by the beach.
Along the coast of the Firth of Forth, about 20 miles from Edinburgh is Gullane Bents. The beach sweeps around in a gentle curve, is backed by dunes and offers views towards Edinburgh in the west. It’s long and wide enough to keep all the different visitors happy, including surfers, walkers and families.
Over the dunes backing the beach are some of the world’s best links golf courses including Muirfield, regular host to the British Open. The pretty village of Gullane sits at the centre of these courses, offering plenty of places in which to eat, drink and stay. Gullane is easily reached by bus or by car via the A198.
The John Muir Way is named after the father of US conservation John Muir, born in Dunbar, and passes through Gullane on the way to Yellowcraig beach. Conde Nast Traveller named Yellowcraig, the best UK beach for urbanites in search of the sea in 2007. Edinburgh residents seem to agree as they come here in their numbers to relax and recharge their batteries. Opposite the beach is the jagged island of Fidra, home to puffins and said to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island.
A hidden treasure of a beach is to be found at Ravensheugh Sands, near Dunbar. Approached through woods from the car park, the beach stretches out to the north with the Bass Rock visible in the distance. It’s a wild and dramatic vista and one that you are unlikely to have to share with too many other people at any time of year.
All that Jazz
This year is the 30th since the Jazz festival kicked off in 1978 and amazingly the programme features five bands who played at the first event. As well as this happy reunion the festival director, Fiona Alexander, has focused on showing what’s happening now worldwide and nurturing talent in Scotland. Hear her talking about the programme on Edfest TV.
Venues include the spacious Queen’s Hall, the intimate Jazz Centre at the Lot and Jools Holland’s venture The Jamhouse. Tickets can be purchased through the venues or the Jazz and Blues festival website.
The deli best
Scott’s deli at 10 Gillespie Place is light and bright and has seats facing onto Bruntsfield Place. Enjoy coffee and cake while perusing the rest of the produce or just watch the world go by. Falko Konditomeister, 7 Bruntsfield Place, is cake heaven. Winner of a Best Producer award in the Observer Food Monthly Awards 2007, Falko is a master confectioner to be marvelled at.
For late-night nibbles you’re best heading for one of the three Peckhams stores in Edinburgh. As they stay open until midnight, you can have a little bit of what you fancy when you fancy it.
Valvona and Crolla is an Edinburgh institution, having been providing fine food and wines from their Elm Row base for over 70 years. It remains an independent family run business even though it is one of the leading Italian food and wine specialists in the UK. From the shop and café to online trade, quality and service are of paramount importance. As Matthew Fort, food writer for The Guardian put it Valvona and Crolla is the…”dog’s family jewels when it comes to food shopping.”
